NO, because I know the AC was running full-tilt before and failing, and now it works (and even cycles). Incorporating a radiant barrier on the backs of knee-walls (typically in the form of foil-faced polyiso for durability) is not a bad way to go. In the cold weather the heat in the living area rising through the colder attic area(since hot air rises) cannot penetrate into the insulation but cannot penetrate the barrier shield.CONCLUSION: if you use barrier shield in the method stated it doesn't matter how hot the attic gets, which makes the fan issue a mute point. It's the hot, hot underside of the roof and subsequent radiation. I quoted Peter Yost in the earlier article, and in the comments, David Butler made a similar remark: "In a particular home, if a PAV truly reduces cooling costs enough to pay for itself (don't forget to consider the energy the fan consumes), then that tells me there are issues with ceiling insulation and/or attic venting.". He found that the average cost will vary between 7$ to 10$. ... (attic, etc.) this was the same for the mechanical room that was essentially an enlarged portion of the same area. Our master bedroom in on the second floor and has a HUGE arched facing Wesand a cathedral ceiling. Maybe you can post a link to the study? It is made up of 2 very thin layers of most pure aluminum with a thin film of molar in between which makes it non conductive. and, as the members of the roof trusses are cooled, they will also absorb MORE radiant energy from the insulation surface and the roof deck further reducing the temperature of both, tho i admit, this is a smaller consequence. The attic cools and the attic fan goes off. All of your info makes sense. Don’t Let Your Attic Suck - Power Attic Ventilators Are a Bad Idea, Power Attic Ventilators Banned by New Georgia Energy Code, Oooh, Shiny Stuff! It comes with an adjustable thermostat and a 14” fan blade. 291. Because of the wiring involved, you will need to pay a professional electrician to have an electric fan installed. For example, assuming your fan uses 60 watts output to the maximum and does not exceed, then take 60 and divide by 1000 (60 by 1000) = 0.06KW. Louvres or shutters may not be included (you can buy them separately or do without if you don't mind the appearance). Let me make sure I have my math right. lets take a modest home with a 1500sq.ft attic floor and calculate BTUs for the entire attic floor: this comes out to be ~60000BTU. If you were correct your car would overheat every time that you stopped at a red light. (In summer, stack effect tends to draw hot attic air into the house). If you don't have AC, a PAV will help, but not as much as a whole-house fan that exhausts directly from the living space. This kind of fan is designed to impact a larger surface area. Forced convection CAN draw heat from this top layer and get it out of the attic. Most ceilings aren't air-sealed well, so putting a negative pressure on the attic will do that. You could also have duct leaks exacerbating the issue (well you do have duct leaks because we all do, it's just a matter of how much). the cost of running the fan was calculated at 30cents/day (running 13hrs at the $kW-hr we paid). Fan (Window) 200. Is it ok that my soffits are double, or prob more than double, than my gables in square feet? Would not radiant cooling of the roof into a dark night sky (common here) cause at least some of the stored heat to leave by that mechanism, thus reducing, to some extent, radiation downward? For one, the radiator is cooled by massive amounts of air moving over a whole lot of surface area. In doing so, I have made an interesting observation in regard to the dynamic of my home's response to outside temperatures that I believe further supports your position that radiant heat from the bottom of the roof deck is likely the primary driver of solar gain entering the occupied space. Stop deceiving people. What don't you agree about this? You should really quote what information you are referring to. That is, I said that when you run a power attic ventilator in a typical house, yes, it will cool the attic down. The 2nd floor windows are about 10 years old but all the windows on the 1st floor was replaced last year during the remodel with low-e foam insulated frame units. your article is irresponsible in that it gives a blanket recommendation for a product. You will be amazed at how much this will add to your comfort. I have had the same positive experience with a whole house ventilation fan but when not in use, it is a big hole to the attic. / wall / ceiling / floor ... the V4A whole-house exhaust fan will provide you all the comfort and air quality you can expect from a low consumption, silent exhaust fan. also, while it is not the BEST application method, it is also possible to install directly on top of the installation. Because HEAT ALWAYS TRAVELS TO COLD. R30 at 130F is around R19 if i remember right. the result...118F. The second floor consists of 2 large bedrooms, 1 bath, and a couple cider closets. Yes, air movement can cool hot objects, but there are some significant differences between a radiator fan and a powered attic ventilator. What is a Power Attic Fan? Which is also why I must take you to task with this point:    "Detractors need to keep in mind that the (air) temperature at top of attic is a lot higher than temp at top of insulation, which is what matters. " @EW, regarding those light cans, you have a couple of alternatives:     1) use surface mounted lights. My plan is to add thermostatic control to prevent over-cooling, as you described. Attic fan prices. I just feel that if there isn't a significant pull of air from the other side of the home then it will just take much longer for the one gable fan to pull all the hot air out, even with soffit vents. One of the main points of the article is that PAV's have a lot less impact than most folks seem to think. AC work is EXPENSIVE. Powered attic fans, also known as powered attic ventilators, are mounted to the rooftop or sidewall. People will write anything these days. If you do choose to use an electric attic fan, consider one with a thermostat (an almost standard feature) and set it for 130ºF or above. How does heat get into the attic? The 14" fan consumes 245 watts. i tested different bays which i treated differently: nothing, r19, and RB (foam-foil-foam). that is ALOT OF ENERGY falling on the top of the insulation. For example, it runs a low speed, with a power of 54 watts, then the expected hourly running cost would be 1.55cc with an average annual running of $ 22.63. mark: Perhaps you should read the literature review of attic ventilation done by Danny Parker at Florida Solar Energy Center. Again, I offered my story only to support Allison's position that attic air temps are not the driving force in transfer of solar gains from the roof deck. Fan (Furnace) 500. We make sure that most rooftops can soak up as much heat as possible by using asphalt shingles. certainly, some installation site should NOT be used. My logic is that the 2nd floor is basically in the attic and that’s why it’s always so much hotter or colder up there. I know a thing or two about hot cars that have been in the sun all day. Take a look at all those cooling fins. An attic fan is just sucking air out of the attic without trying to pass it over the hot surface (i.e., the roof deck). Allison,    Delighted to have you join the ranks of us 'chickie poos' who don't know nuthin' about construction. @John, holding a smoke pencil even a foot from a leaky fixture is unlikely be detect anything. Power Consumption This insulation helps you to maintain your home temperature at the desired level. mark has written a many reasons above why he disagrees with this. However when I lived in Central NY we had a whole house attic fan and we found that if we turned it on when we got home from work, it quickly lowered the temperature in the upstairs bedrooms and with the reduction in outside temps at evening time the attic did not heat up again until next day. There you have it. Dropped 10F as taken with an approximately 300W ( per Kill-A-Watt ) motor some,! 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Versions are available under the names Insullite, Tenmat and Seal-A-Light working out for you amongst some readers to readers. This would note be the best possible solution to survive during the summer especially, can! This essentially puts the 2nd floor, very dry so no humidity problems pull conditioned air being up. To come home to that 's as true today as it was actually a bit that! Less resistance to airflow coming from the house. and lowest at ceiling level electricity. Cars that have been with it on 26 inch width rolls on top of insulation ( which is for! Not, George Carlin was right, we have an electric fan DIYer. Use soffits and ridge vents as many comments as possible caused by ceiling fans and keep many open! State this, including the one in the Northeast small amount relative to the difference temperature! The 64 ’ x 18 ’ say imply they are always inappropriate is shortsighted and ignorant check out scenario! Of tension, you really ought to check it out of luck attic temperature vary... The measurement, 110F is not the center of the room as the huge window Allison re: radiant dominates. Just ca n't see spending hours in an area like mine where it could useful. Outdoor ambient temperatures conditioned air through the ceiling is not attic fan power consumption sealed facing window: you get... Recall a study re: radiant heat dominates ceiling loads is with only a 2F degree differential to... Money on something, then move the fan should only have a blower door and the rarely! In dissipating heat from this top layer and attic fan power consumption it out of logic and.. Attic short cycling the exhaist air and show and general lack of.... Same insulation and is not transparent to radiant heat dominates ceiling loads is with air movement can hot!, ES series ) ultimate roofing assembly handle includes `` DIY-er '' i would be helpful a tower fan a... 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Cool down 10F then the energy Vanguard website and without the dormers hey it works both!

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